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Tag: bespoke engagement rings

Why Bespoke Engagement Rings Cost More Than The High Street

I don’t expect everyone to choose a bespoke engagement ring.

Some people want something they can walk into a shop and buy that afternoon, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.

But if you’ve found yourself wondering why a handmade ring from an independent jeweller often costs more than something that appears similar on the high street, I thought it was worth explaining what actually happens behind the scenes.

Not to convince you.

Simply so you know where your money goes.

Every Ring Starts With A Conversation

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I don’t have rows of engagement rings waiting in a display cabinet.

Almost every ring that leaves my workshop starts with two people telling me a little about themselves.

Sometimes they’ve saved photographs for years.

Sometimes they only know what they don’t like.

My job isn’t to steer them towards whatever happens to be in stock. It’s to listen, ask questions, and slowly work out what feels right.

That process takes time, but it usually produces a ring that couldn’t really belong to anyone else.

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I Make One Ring At A Time

A lot of jewellery is designed to be made as efficiently as possible.

Mine isn’t.

There are days where I spend hours on something that most people will never notice.

Softening an edge so it’s more comfortable to wear.

Adjusting the proportions by half a millimetre because the balance feels better.

Reworking a setting because I know I can make it cleaner.

Those decisions don’t appear on an invoice, but they’re a large part of what you’re paying for.

You’re Buying Years, Not Just Hours

People often ask how long a ring takes to make.

The honest answer is that you’re not just paying for the hours I spend making yours.

You’re also paying for the years it took to know how to make those hours count.

Knowing how metal moves.

Knowing when something looks right.

Knowing when to leave a texture alone instead of polishing it away.

Experience is difficult to measure, but it’s present in almost every decision.

I Want You To Come Back In Twenty Years

An engagement ring isn’t finished when it leaves the workshop.

At least, I don’t think it is.

I hope I’ll see it again.

For cleaning.

For resizing.

For a wedding band.

Perhaps one day to remodel it for the next generation.

That changes how I make things.

I’m not interested in building something that only needs to look good on the day it’s collected.

I’m interested in making something that still deserves to be worn decades from now.

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Natural vs Lab Grown Diamonds Workbench Comparison
Natural and lab grown diamonds can appear identical, but differ in origin, rarity and long term value

You’re Working With The Person Making It

If you’ve ever commissioned something handmade before, you’ll know this part matters.

You’re not speaking to a salesperson who passes notes to a workshop somewhere else.

You’re speaking to the person who’s actually making your ring.

If I suggest changing the width of a band or lowering a setting, it’s because I’ve made enough rings to know how those decisions affect the finished piece.

That direct relationship is one of the things people tell me they value most.

So Why Does A Bespoke Ring Cost More?

Because it’s built differently.

Not just physically, but in the amount of thought, time and care that goes into every decision.

There are wonderful engagement rings available on the high street, and for many people they’re exactly the right choice.

But if you want something made around one person, by one maker, with the expectation that it will become part of your family’s story, the process naturally takes longer.

And I wouldn’t really want to make it any other way.

Tom McDanielson at the jeweller’s bench
Independent goldsmith Tom McDanielson filing a handmade silver jewellery piece at The Middle Green workshop in Wiltshire

About The Middle Green

I’m Tom McDanielson, the jeweller behind The Middle Green.

Every bespoke engagement ring is made from my workshop in Wiltshire, where I work directly with each client from the first conversation through to the finished piece. There isn’t a sales team, a design department or a production line. If you ask a question about your ring, you’ll be speaking to the person making it.

The process usually begins with an informal consultation, where we’ll discuss ideas, budget, gemstones and the style of ring you’re hoping to create. From there I’ll source stones, develop the design with you and handcraft your ring using traditional goldsmithing techniques.

The aim isn’t simply to make a beautiful engagement ring.

It’s to make one that feels like it was always meant to be yours.

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Natural vs Lab Grown Diamonds: What Should You Choose?

If you’re choosing an engagement ring today, you’ll almost certainly come across the question of natural versus lab grown diamonds. Both are real diamonds. Both are made from carbon. Both are incredibly hard, durable, and suitable for everyday wear. At first glance, they can appear almost identical. The real difference lies in where they come from, what they represent, and how you feel about wearing them.

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What Is A Natural Diamond?

A natural diamond is formed deep within the earth over billions of years through immense heat and pressure before eventually being brought closer to the surface through volcanic activity.

Every natural diamond is the result of a process that cannot be replicated by time alone. It is a finite material created by nature over a timescale far beyond human experience.

For many people, that rarity and permanence form part of the appeal.

What Is A Lab Grown Diamond?

A lab grown diamond has the same chemical composition as a natural diamond but is created in a controlled environment using modern technology.

It is still a real diamond.

It is not cubic zirconia, moissanite, or an imitation stone.

To the eye, a lab grown diamond can look identical to a natural diamond.

The difference is that one was formed naturally over billions of years, while the other was manufactured in a matter of weeks.

Why Are Lab Grown Diamonds Less Expensive?

The primary reason is supply.

Natural diamonds are finite.

Lab grown diamonds can be produced whenever there is demand.

As manufacturing processes improve and production increases, prices continue to fall.

This allows buyers to purchase larger stones for the same budget.

The Question Of Value

For some people, a diamond is simply about appearance.

For others, the story behind the stone matters just as much as how it looks.

Natural diamonds remain rare because nature creates them in limited quantities.

Lab grown diamonds can be reproduced indefinitely.

As a result, natural diamonds have historically held their value more effectively, while lab grown diamonds have seen significant price reductions as production has expanded.

My View As A Goldsmith

Both natural and lab grown diamonds can be used to create beautiful engagement rings.

However, I personally favour natural diamonds.

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Not because lab grown diamonds are inferior, but because I believe engagement rings should celebrate authenticity.

A natural diamond carries a story that cannot be recreated. It is a material shaped by the earth itself and formed long before any of us existed.

That feels meaningful in a way that a manufactured alternative never quite does.

If a client wants the character, rarity and history that diamonds are known for, I will usually recommend a natural stone.

Considering Alternatives?

If budget is the main concern, my preference is often not to replace a natural diamond with a lab grown version.

Instead, it can be worth exploring other beautiful natural gemstones.

Using Family Diamonds In A New Engagement Ring

Sapphires, spinels, garnets and other coloured stones each have their own character, history and identity.

Rather than choosing a manufactured version of a diamond, some clients prefer to choose a different natural gemstone entirely and celebrate what makes that material unique.

Which Should You Choose?

There is no universal right answer.

A lab grown diamond may suit someone whose priority is achieving the largest possible stone for their budget.

A natural diamond may suit someone who values rarity, geological history and the idea of wearing something that nature created over billions of years.

The best choice is the one that aligns with your priorities and the story you want your ring to tell.

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At The Middle Green, every engagement ring begins with a conversation. Whether you choose a natural diamond, an heirloom stone, or an alternative gemstone, the goal remains the same: creating a piece with lasting personal significance that can be worn, lived with and eventually passed on.

FAQs

Are lab grown diamonds real diamonds?

Yes. Lab grown diamonds have the same chemical composition and hardness as natural diamonds.

Can you tell the difference between a natural and lab grown diamond?

In most cases, no. Specialist equipment is often required to identify the origin of a diamond.

Do natural diamonds hold their value better?

Historically, natural diamonds have retained value more effectively due to their limited supply, while lab grown diamond prices have generally fallen as production has increased.

Can I use a sapphire instead of a diamond for an engagement ring?

Yes. Sapphires are one of the most popular alternatives to diamonds and are available in a wide range of colours.

Can I use a family diamond in a new engagement ring?

In many cases, yes. Existing diamonds can often be incorporated into a completely new bespoke design.

Can Family Diamonds Be Used In An Engagement Ring?

Using family diamonds in an engagement ring allows you to create something deeply personal while preserving an important part of your family’s history.

A new diamond.
A new design.
A new story.

Working with inherited stones feels different from the beginning.

Sometimes clients arrive at the workshop in Wiltshire with a single ring that has been worn for decades. Sometimes it is a small collection of jewellery that has sat unworn for years but still feels too important to part with.

The stone survives.
The design changes around it.

I’m Tom McDanielson, founder and maker behind The Middle Green, where I design and make bespoke engagement rings and heirloom remodelling projects using both newly sourced and inherited diamonds.

Why People Choose To Reuse Family Diamonds

For most people, it is not really about saving money.

It is about continuity.

A diamond that has already existed within a family often feels different to wear than something chosen entirely new. The value becomes layered over time.

You are not just commissioning a ring.
You are carrying something forward.

That can mean:

  • remodelling inherited jewellery into something wearable again
  • combining stones from multiple family rings
  • resetting a diamond from an older engagement ring
  • preserving sentimental stones while creating a completely different design
  • giving jewellery another life rather than leaving it unworn in a box

A lot of bespoke engagement projects are really about preserving meaning rather than simply creating decoration.

A Lot Of These Projects Start With A Conversation

Most heirloom redesigns are less straightforward than people expect.

Often there is uncertainty around what should actually stay.
Sometimes the original ring feels dated but the stone still matters.
Sometimes the jewellery itself carries emotional weight even if it is never realistically going to be worn again.

A lot of consultations end up with inherited jewellery spread across the bench while we work out what should be preserved, what can realistically be reused, and what the next version could become.

Those conversations usually shape the final ring more than trends or reference images do.

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What Can Actually Be Reused?

Usually the diamonds themselves.

Older settings are often heavily worn, thin, damaged, or built in ways that do not suit a modern ring structurally. The stones are normally the most valuable part to preserve.

Commonly reused stones include:

  • old cut diamonds
  • round brilliant diamonds
  • small accent stones
  • heirloom side stones
  • sapphires and coloured stones from inherited jewellery

Older diamonds are often especially interesting because they were cut differently.

Old European cuts and rose cuts tend to feel softer and more irregular than modern stones. They catch light differently. Slight asymmetry and hand-cut proportions often give them far more character.

Perfect can feel strangely lifeless sometimes.

The First Step Is Normally Assessment

Before any design work starts, the stones need checking properly.

I normally look at:

  • chips or damage
  • wear on the girdle
  • previous repair work
  • stone dimensions
  • whether the stones are suitable for daily wear
  • whether they structurally suit the proposed design

Not every inherited stone should automatically go into a new engagement ring.

Sometimes a stone is too worn.
Sometimes proportions make setting difficult.
Sometimes sentimental value outweighs practicality.

Part of the process is being honest about risk before anything is made.

Designing Around Existing Stones

Designing around inherited diamonds is usually more restrictive than designing from scratch.

The stone dimensions already exist.
The proportions already exist.
The design has to respect that.

But those limitations often create stronger work.

Learn more about our bespoke jewellery process

Instead of endlessly browsing options, the project becomes about balance, proportion, texture, and how to make the stone feel at home in a new piece.

The strongest heirloom redesigns usually do not feel forced.

They feel like the stone naturally belonged there all along.

Old Diamonds Work Beautifully In More Organic Settings

One thing I particularly like about older diamonds is that they often suit softer, more organic settings.

Warmer gold tones.
Slightly weathered finishes.
Heavier claw work.
Hand-finished surfaces that still show traces of the making process.

Old stones rarely need ultra-clinical settings to feel special.

In many ways, the imperfections are part of what give them character.

I’ve increasingly found myself drawn toward older diamonds and softer design language in recent years, particularly while developing the next engagement ring pieces for The Middle Green.

What Happens To The Original Jewellery?

That depends entirely on the project.

Some people want the original ring preserved alongside the new piece.
Others are happy for the old ring to be dismantled completely.

Occasionally small details can still be carried across:

  • engraving
  • hidden details
  • tiny accent stones
  • metal melted into a new piece where practical

Although realistically, in many redesign projects, it is the emotional continuity that matters more than physically preserving every element.

The Emotional Side Of The Process

People often underestimate how emotional jewellery becomes.

Especially engagement rings.

Objects absorb memory slowly over time. Jewellery just seems to do it more than most things.

A diamond can outlast generations.
The meaning around it changes repeatedly.

That is part of what makes inherited stones interesting to work with.
You are not creating meaning from nothing.
You are adding another layer to something that already matters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can old diamonds be reused in a new engagement ring?

Usually, yes.

Most inherited diamonds can be removed from their original setting and reset into a completely new design, assuming the stone is structurally sound.

Can inherited gold also be reused?

Sometimes, but not always directly.

Older gold alloys can behave unpredictably when remelted, so in many cases it is safer to use the inherited gold as material credit toward a new ring rather than physically incorporating it. We prefer to use existing gold for the heavier parts of a design (ie the band rather than the more delicate setting) where it is more structurally sound.

Are old cut diamonds suitable for modern engagement rings?

Absolutely.

Old cut diamonds often work beautifully in contemporary handmade settings, especially designs with softer proportions and more organic finishes.

What if the original ring is damaged?

That is very common.

In most cases the stones themselves are still usable even if the original setting is heavily worn or damaged.

Do I need to know exactly what I want before booking?

Not at all.

Most bespoke engagement projects develop gradually through conversation, sketches, stone assessment, and trying proportions in person.

Considering An Heirloom Redesign?

I regularly work with inherited diamonds and sentimental jewellery from clients across Swindon, Wiltshire, and the wider UK.

Some projects involve subtle redesigns.
Others become entirely new engagement rings built around stones that already carry decades of history.

If you have family jewellery you are considering remodelling, you can explore the bespoke process through the engagement ring and bespoke jewellery sections of the website, or get in touch directly to discuss the project.

The best alternatives to diamonds when choosing a stone for your wedding or engagement ring

Best Alternative Gemstones for Engagement and Wedding Rings

Diamonds are a classic choice for engagement or wedding rings, but they are far from the only option. Many couples today are drawn to alternative gemstones that offer colour, character, and deeper personal meaning, while still standing up to daily wear.

When choosing a gemstone for a ring you’ll wear every day, durability matters. Stones with higher hardness on the Mohs scale resist scratching and abrasion, helping your ring retain its beauty for decades.

Here’s a practical guide to the best alternative gemstones for engagement and wedding rings, and how to choose the right one for you.

Why Choose Diamond Alternatives for Engagement Rings?

Alternative gemstones allow couples to:

  • Express individuality through colour and distinctive design
  • Select stones with personal or symbolic meaning
  • Create a ring that feels intentional rather than conventional

Many gemstones offer excellent durability, making them well suited to engagement and wedding rings when properly set.

What Makes a Good Engagement Ring Gemstone?

When choosing a gemstone for an engagement or wedding ring, consider three key factors:

1. Durability

For daily wear, gemstones ideally fall above 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. These stones resist scratching and maintain polish over time.

Excellent choices include:

  • Sapphire
  • Ruby
  • Tsavorite garnet
  • Spinel
  • Alexandrite

These stones combine beauty with practical longevity.

2. Colour and Visual Character

Alternative gemstones open up a wide spectrum of colour:

  • Deep greens, vivid blues, rich reds, soft pastels, and inky dark tones
  • Subtle or saturated depending on your preference

Your metal choice influences the final look:

  • White gold and platinum complement cooler hues (blue sapphire, spinel, alexandrite)
  • Yellow and rose gold enhance warm tones (ruby, tsavorite, champagne sapphire)

3. Meaning and Symbolism

Many couples choose stones for their associations:

  • Sapphire: loyalty, wisdom, and lasting love
  • Ruby: passion, strength, and devotion
  • Tsavorite: growth, vitality, and prosperity
  • Spinel: renewal and resilience

Meaning can be personal rather than traditional. The most important factor is choosing a stone that resonates with you.

Best Diamond Alternatives for Engagement Rings

Sapphire

One of the most durable gemstones after diamond. Available in blue, green, yellow, pink, peach, and parti-colours. A timeless yet versatile choice.

Ruby

A variety of corundum (like sapphire) with exceptional hardness and a rich red colour. Ideal for those wanting a bold, romantic statement.

Tsavorite Garnet

Vivid green with excellent brilliance and strong durability. A striking alternative to emerald, but far tougher for everyday wear.

Spinel

Often overlooked, spinel comes in blues, greys, reds, pinks, and black. Hard, bright, and well suited to engagement rings.

Salt and Pepper Diamonds

Natural diamonds containing visible inclusions that create a smoky, speckled appearance. They offer the same durability as traditional diamonds, with a more organic, unconventional aesthetic.

Stones Better Suited for Accent Use

Softer gemstones such as quartz varieties (amethyst, citrine, rose quartz), turquoise, or malachite can be beautiful, but are more vulnerable to scratching. These stones work best as:

  • Accent stones
  • Occasional-wear rings
  • Heavily protected bezel or halo settings

For centre stones in engagement rings, higher-hardness gems are the safer choice.

Engagement Ring Design Approaches

When exploring the best alternative stones for engagement rings, consider these design approaches:

  • Single-stone rings: Showcase a sapphire, ruby, spinel, or tsavorite for a clean, timeless look.
  • Gemstone centre with diamond accents: Coloured centre stone with small diamonds for added sparkle and durability.
  • Bezel-set gemstones: A protective metal rim around the stone, ideal for active lifestyles.

Good design and setting choice significantly extend a gemstone’s lifespan. Browse our selection of handmade rings for inspiration.

Gemstones in Wedding Bands

Wedding bands can incorporate gemstones subtly:

  • Small sapphires or rubies set flush into the band
  • Mixed gemstone and diamond accents
  • Alternating coloured stones for symbolic meaning

These details add individuality without sacrificing practicality.

Bespoke Engagement and Wedding Rings

For couples who want a truly unique ring, bespoke options are the perfect solution. Allowing you to choose the exact gemstone you love, select a setting and metal that suits your lifestyle, and create something truly one of a kind.

At The Middle Green, we specialise in creating bespoke engagement and wedding rings using both traditional diamonds and carefully selected alternative gemstones.

Book your consultation to design a ring that reflects your story and will last a lifetime.