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Why Bespoke Engagement Rings Cost More Than The High Street

I don’t expect everyone to choose a bespoke engagement ring.

Some people want something they can walk into a shop and buy that afternoon, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.

But if you’ve found yourself wondering why a handmade ring from an independent jeweller often costs more than something that appears similar on the high street, I thought it was worth explaining what actually happens behind the scenes.

Not to convince you.

Simply so you know where your money goes.

Every Ring Starts With A Conversation

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I don’t have rows of engagement rings waiting in a display cabinet.

Almost every ring that leaves my workshop starts with two people telling me a little about themselves.

Sometimes they’ve saved photographs for years.

Sometimes they only know what they don’t like.

My job isn’t to steer them towards whatever happens to be in stock. It’s to listen, ask questions, and slowly work out what feels right.

That process takes time, but it usually produces a ring that couldn’t really belong to anyone else.

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I Make One Ring At A Time

A lot of jewellery is designed to be made as efficiently as possible.

Mine isn’t.

There are days where I spend hours on something that most people will never notice.

Softening an edge so it’s more comfortable to wear.

Adjusting the proportions by half a millimetre because the balance feels better.

Reworking a setting because I know I can make it cleaner.

Those decisions don’t appear on an invoice, but they’re a large part of what you’re paying for.

You’re Buying Years, Not Just Hours

People often ask how long a ring takes to make.

The honest answer is that you’re not just paying for the hours I spend making yours.

You’re also paying for the years it took to know how to make those hours count.

Knowing how metal moves.

Knowing when something looks right.

Knowing when to leave a texture alone instead of polishing it away.

Experience is difficult to measure, but it’s present in almost every decision.

I Want You To Come Back In Twenty Years

An engagement ring isn’t finished when it leaves the workshop.

At least, I don’t think it is.

I hope I’ll see it again.

For cleaning.

For resizing.

For a wedding band.

Perhaps one day to remodel it for the next generation.

That changes how I make things.

I’m not interested in building something that only needs to look good on the day it’s collected.

I’m interested in making something that still deserves to be worn decades from now.

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Natural vs Lab Grown Diamonds Workbench Comparison
Natural and lab grown diamonds can appear identical, but differ in origin, rarity and long term value

You’re Working With The Person Making It

If you’ve ever commissioned something handmade before, you’ll know this part matters.

You’re not speaking to a salesperson who passes notes to a workshop somewhere else.

You’re speaking to the person who’s actually making your ring.

If I suggest changing the width of a band or lowering a setting, it’s because I’ve made enough rings to know how those decisions affect the finished piece.

That direct relationship is one of the things people tell me they value most.

So Why Does A Bespoke Ring Cost More?

Because it’s built differently.

Not just physically, but in the amount of thought, time and care that goes into every decision.

There are wonderful engagement rings available on the high street, and for many people they’re exactly the right choice.

But if you want something made around one person, by one maker, with the expectation that it will become part of your family’s story, the process naturally takes longer.

And I wouldn’t really want to make it any other way.

Tom McDanielson at the jeweller’s bench
Independent goldsmith Tom McDanielson filing a handmade silver jewellery piece at The Middle Green workshop in Wiltshire

About The Middle Green

I’m Tom McDanielson, the jeweller behind The Middle Green.

Every bespoke engagement ring is made from my workshop in Wiltshire, where I work directly with each client from the first conversation through to the finished piece. There isn’t a sales team, a design department or a production line. If you ask a question about your ring, you’ll be speaking to the person making it.

The process usually begins with an informal consultation, where we’ll discuss ideas, budget, gemstones and the style of ring you’re hoping to create. From there I’ll source stones, develop the design with you and handcraft your ring using traditional goldsmithing techniques.

The aim isn’t simply to make a beautiful engagement ring.

It’s to make one that feels like it was always meant to be yours.

Contact Tom

Why I Keep Making Vegvísir Jewellery

People often ask why I use the Vegvísir symbol so frequently in my work.

Partly because I like the design.

But mostly because I think it captures something recognisably human.

As a jeweller, I’ve realised that people rarely buy jewellery simply because it looks nice.

The pieces that stay with people tend to represent something.

A relationship.

A memory.

A period of life.

A decision.

A reminder.

The Vegvísir seems to fit naturally into that.

It’s Not Quite The Viking Symbol Most People Think It Is

The Vegvísir is often described as a Viking compass.

The reality is slightly more complicated.

The symbol appears in Icelandic manuscripts from the nineteenth century, most famously the Huld Manuscript from 1860, rather than surviving Viking Age sources.

For some people that diminishes the symbol.

For me, it doesn’t really change anything.

Because what interests me isn’t whether Vikings wore it.

What interests me is why people still do.

The Part That Matters To Me

I’ve spent years making jewellery for people marking important moments in their lives.

Engagements.

Marriages.

Anniversaries.

Losses.

Fresh starts.

Inherited jewellery carrying family stories.

One thing I’ve noticed is that people often choose symbols when they’re standing at some kind of crossroads.

Not because they believe a symbol will change the outcome.

Because it helps them remember who they want to be while they’re moving through it.

That’s what I think the Vegvísir represents.

Not certainty.

Direction.

Why It Belongs At The Middle Green

The Middle Green has never really been about recreating history.

I’m not interested in making museum replicas.

What interests me is creating modern talismans.

Pieces that feel personal.

Pieces that feel carried rather than displayed.

The Vegvísir fits naturally within that idea.

Not because it’s ancient.

Not because it’s Viking.

But because people still connect with what it represents.

Guidance.

Direction.

Finding your way when the route ahead isn’t entirely clear.

That’s something people needed in 1860.

It’s something people need now.

And it’s probably something we’ll always need.

Every Vegvísir piece is designed and handmade by Tom McDanielson in my Wiltshire workshop.

How To Design An Engagement Ring Without Ruining The Surprise

First Things First

You Do Not Need To Know What You’re Doing

Most people designing an engagement ring have never bought jewellery before

So if you currently feel slightly out of your depth, that’s fairly normal

The majority of bespoke engagement rings start with:
• a rough budget
• a few screenshots
• maybe a vague idea of style
• and a lot of “I’m not really sure what I’m looking for”

That’s enough to begin

Part of my job is helping narrow things down and make the process feel manageable rather than overwhelming

Keeping The Whole Thing Secret

This is usually much easier than people expect

Most engagement rings are designed quietly through:
• messages
• emails
• short calls
• or one relaxed meeting

You do not need to disappear for mysterious full-day appointments every weekend

A lot of the process happens gradually in the background while normal life carries on

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I’m also very aware that people are often trying not to get caught

So communication can stay fairly discreet and low-pressure throughout (feel free to mute our WhatsApp chat)

How To Figure Out What They’ll Actually Like

Most people already have more clues than they realise

The easiest place to start is simply paying attention to what they already wear

Things like:
yellow gold or silver
• minimal or detailed
• delicate or substantial
• vintage feeling or modern
• polished or slightly worn-in

usually tell you far more than random trend articles online

If they wear the same ring every day, that’s probably a better reference point than Instagram

You can also quietly look at:
• Pinterest boards
• saved Instagram posts
• jewellery brands they already follow
• hints from friends or siblings

You are not trying to read their mind perfectly

You are just trying to build a clear direction

Ring Size Without Making It Obvious

This is the part people panic about most

Realistically, there are a few ways around it

You can:
• borrow an existing ring briefly
• ask a friend or family member carefully
• trace a ring on paper
• compare against your own fingers
• or estimate and resize afterwards

Resizing engagement rings later is extremely common

People massively overthink this part

What The Process Usually Looks Like

Most bespoke engagement rings follow a fairly simple process:

1. Initial Conversation

We talk through:
• budget
• style
• stones
• practical wearability
• general direction

Nothing formal or intimidating

2. Stone Sourcing & Design Direction

Once I understand the overall feel of the ring, I’ll source suitable stones and begin narrowing down design options

Usually this becomes much clearer surprisingly quickly

3. Design Refinement

This is where proportions, settings, band shape, texture and small details get adjusted

A lot of the important decisions here are actually about:
• comfort
• durability
• balance
• and how the ring feels to wear long term

not just how it photographs

4. Making The Ring

Once everything is approved, the ring gets made and finished by hand

This is usually the calmest part of the whole process

You’ve already done the hard bit by deciding to ask someone to marry you

The Important Thing People Forget

The proposal matters far more than tiny technical details

Years later, nobody remembers whether a claw was fractionally thicker than another one

They remember:
• how nervous you were
• where it happened
• what was said
• and how it felt opening the box

That’s the real memory

The ring simply becomes part of it afterwards

Final Thought

Most people come into this process worried they’ll get something wrong

In reality, engagement rings are rarely about perfection

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They’re usually about paying attention properly to somebody you love

The rest can be figured out together

Can Family Diamonds Be Used In An Engagement Ring?

Using family diamonds in an engagement ring allows you to create something deeply personal while preserving an important part of your family’s history.

A new diamond.
A new design.
A new story.

Working with inherited stones feels different from the beginning.

Sometimes clients arrive at the workshop in Wiltshire with a single ring that has been worn for decades. Sometimes it is a small collection of jewellery that has sat unworn for years but still feels too important to part with.

The stone survives.
The design changes around it.

I’m Tom McDanielson, founder and maker behind The Middle Green, where I design and make bespoke engagement rings and heirloom remodelling projects using both newly sourced and inherited diamonds.

Why People Choose To Reuse Family Diamonds

For most people, it is not really about saving money.

It is about continuity.

A diamond that has already existed within a family often feels different to wear than something chosen entirely new. The value becomes layered over time.

You are not just commissioning a ring.
You are carrying something forward.

That can mean:

  • remodelling inherited jewellery into something wearable again
  • combining stones from multiple family rings
  • resetting a diamond from an older engagement ring
  • preserving sentimental stones while creating a completely different design
  • giving jewellery another life rather than leaving it unworn in a box

A lot of bespoke engagement projects are really about preserving meaning rather than simply creating decoration.

A Lot Of These Projects Start With A Conversation

Most heirloom redesigns are less straightforward than people expect.

Often there is uncertainty around what should actually stay.
Sometimes the original ring feels dated but the stone still matters.
Sometimes the jewellery itself carries emotional weight even if it is never realistically going to be worn again.

A lot of consultations end up with inherited jewellery spread across the bench while we work out what should be preserved, what can realistically be reused, and what the next version could become.

Those conversations usually shape the final ring more than trends or reference images do.

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What Can Actually Be Reused?

Usually the diamonds themselves.

Older settings are often heavily worn, thin, damaged, or built in ways that do not suit a modern ring structurally. The stones are normally the most valuable part to preserve.

Commonly reused stones include:

  • old cut diamonds
  • round brilliant diamonds
  • small accent stones
  • heirloom side stones
  • sapphires and coloured stones from inherited jewellery

Older diamonds are often especially interesting because they were cut differently.

Old European cuts and rose cuts tend to feel softer and more irregular than modern stones. They catch light differently. Slight asymmetry and hand-cut proportions often give them far more character.

Perfect can feel strangely lifeless sometimes.

The First Step Is Normally Assessment

Before any design work starts, the stones need checking properly.

I normally look at:

  • chips or damage
  • wear on the girdle
  • previous repair work
  • stone dimensions
  • whether the stones are suitable for daily wear
  • whether they structurally suit the proposed design

Not every inherited stone should automatically go into a new engagement ring.

Sometimes a stone is too worn.
Sometimes proportions make setting difficult.
Sometimes sentimental value outweighs practicality.

Part of the process is being honest about risk before anything is made.

Designing Around Existing Stones

Designing around inherited diamonds is usually more restrictive than designing from scratch.

The stone dimensions already exist.
The proportions already exist.
The design has to respect that.

But those limitations often create stronger work.

Learn more about our bespoke jewellery process

Instead of endlessly browsing options, the project becomes about balance, proportion, texture, and how to make the stone feel at home in a new piece.

The strongest heirloom redesigns usually do not feel forced.

They feel like the stone naturally belonged there all along.

Old Diamonds Work Beautifully In More Organic Settings

One thing I particularly like about older diamonds is that they often suit softer, more organic settings.

Warmer gold tones.
Slightly weathered finishes.
Heavier claw work.
Hand-finished surfaces that still show traces of the making process.

Old stones rarely need ultra-clinical settings to feel special.

In many ways, the imperfections are part of what give them character.

I’ve increasingly found myself drawn toward older diamonds and softer design language in recent years, particularly while developing the next engagement ring pieces for The Middle Green.

What Happens To The Original Jewellery?

That depends entirely on the project.

Some people want the original ring preserved alongside the new piece.
Others are happy for the old ring to be dismantled completely.

Occasionally small details can still be carried across:

  • engraving
  • hidden details
  • tiny accent stones
  • metal melted into a new piece where practical

Although realistically, in many redesign projects, it is the emotional continuity that matters more than physically preserving every element.

The Emotional Side Of The Process

People often underestimate how emotional jewellery becomes.

Especially engagement rings.

Objects absorb memory slowly over time. Jewellery just seems to do it more than most things.

A diamond can outlast generations.
The meaning around it changes repeatedly.

That is part of what makes inherited stones interesting to work with.
You are not creating meaning from nothing.
You are adding another layer to something that already matters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can old diamonds be reused in a new engagement ring?

Usually, yes.

Most inherited diamonds can be removed from their original setting and reset into a completely new design, assuming the stone is structurally sound.

Can inherited gold also be reused?

Sometimes, but not always directly.

Older gold alloys can behave unpredictably when remelted, so in many cases it is safer to use the inherited gold as material credit toward a new ring rather than physically incorporating it. We prefer to use existing gold for the heavier parts of a design (ie the band rather than the more delicate setting) where it is more structurally sound.

Are old cut diamonds suitable for modern engagement rings?

Absolutely.

Old cut diamonds often work beautifully in contemporary handmade settings, especially designs with softer proportions and more organic finishes.

What if the original ring is damaged?

That is very common.

In most cases the stones themselves are still usable even if the original setting is heavily worn or damaged.

Do I need to know exactly what I want before booking?

Not at all.

Most bespoke engagement projects develop gradually through conversation, sketches, stone assessment, and trying proportions in person.

Considering An Heirloom Redesign?

I regularly work with inherited diamonds and sentimental jewellery from clients across Swindon, Wiltshire, and the wider UK.

Some projects involve subtle redesigns.
Others become entirely new engagement rings built around stones that already carry decades of history.

If you have family jewellery you are considering remodelling, you can explore the bespoke process through the engagement ring and bespoke jewellery sections of the website, or get in touch directly to discuss the project.

Why I Stamp Runes by Hand (and Don’t Chase Perfection)

Most of the runes I stamp don’t land exactly the same way twice

Some sit slightly deeper
Some spread a touch wider in the silver
Occasionally one edge is sharper than the rest

That isn’t something I correct every time

The reality of stamping

Each rune is struck by hand into solid metal
There’s no jig holding it in place
No machine applying consistent pressure

It’s just the stamp, a hammer, and judgement in the moment

Silver moves more than people expect
Even a small difference in force changes how the mark sits

You learn to read it as you go
Rather than forcing it into something uniform

This is the exact pendant this came from

Why I leave variation in

There’s a point where correcting something removes what made it good in the first place

If a rune lands slightly deeper but feels right
I’ll leave it

If the edges soften into the surface
I’ll leave that too

If you’re thinking about something more personal, details on bespoke work are here

Trying to make every piece identical usually leads to something flatter
Less considered
More like production than making

That’s not what these are meant to be

What this means for the piece you wear

No two marks are exactly the same

Even when the symbol is identical
The way it sits in the metal will differ slightly

Over time, that mark wears with you
Edges soften further
High points pick up light differently

It becomes less about how it looked on the bench
And more about how it settles into your day to day

If you’re unsure which rune to go with, I’ve written a simple guide here

Why that matters

A lot of jewellery is designed to stay unchanged

Perfect surface
Perfect symmetry
Perfect repeatability

That has its place

But for something worn daily
Handled
Carried

A bit of variation tends to hold up better

It gives the piece somewhere to go over time

Rather than trying to keep it exactly as it started

Where this fits

This is how all Seidr pieces are made
Each rune stamped individually into recycled silver, then finished by hand

You can see the current pieces here

What Makes Handmade Jewellery Different

(And Why It Matters)

Most jewellery is designed to look good at a glance

Very little of it is designed to be lived with

That difference starts with how it is made

What “handmade” actually means

The term gets used loosely

In reality, there’s a spectrum

At one end, you have mass-produced pieces
Cast in bulk, polished by machine, finished to be identical

At the other, you have work that is shaped, adjusted, and finished by hand
One piece at a time

This is where handmade jewellery sits

Not perfect
Not identical
But considered at every stage

The process is slower, and that’s the point

A handmade piece passes through fewer hands, but more decisions

Every surface is checked
Edges are refined by eye
Proportions are adjusted in real time

There’s no “good enough” point built into a production line

It’s finished when it feels right

That difference is subtle, but it shows over time
In how the piece wears
In how it holds up
In how it feels when you pick it up, designed to be worn daily

Small imperfections are not flaws

Machine-made jewellery aims for uniformity

Handmade jewellery accepts variation

You might see:

  • Slight differences in surface texture
  • Soft irregularities in shape
  • Marks that come from the making process

These are not mistakes

They are evidence that the piece has been handled, not stamped out

Over time, these details become part of the character of the piece
Rather than something that needs to be hidden

Materials are treated differently

When you’re making one piece at a time, material choice matters more

Recycled metals are selected and worked deliberately
Not just fed into a system

Stone setting is done with care for that specific stone
Not a standardised fitting

The result is a piece that feels solid, balanced, and intentional
Rather than something assembled to a specification

Longevity over trend

Most mass-produced jewellery is designed for turnover

Seasons change
Styles shift
Pieces are replaced

Handmade jewellery tends to move in the opposite direction

It is designed to last
Both physically and emotionally

That means:

  • Simpler forms
  • Stronger construction
  • Less reliance on trends

The goal is not to be worn once

It’s to become part of your routine

Why it matters

Not everyone needs handmade jewellery

If you want something purely decorative, there are plenty of options

But if you want a piece that:

  • holds meaning
  • lasts beyond a season
  • feels like it belongs to you

Then how it is made starts to matter

Because you’re not just choosing how it looks

You’re choosing how it was created, and what it represents

A final note

Handmade doesn’t mean perfect

It means considered

It means slower decisions, fewer shortcuts, and a piece that carries some trace of the person who made it

For some people, that difference is negligible

For others, it’s the whole point